10,000 Miles and Counting...
Scott Noethen had never stepped foot on a single wilderness treadway when he decided to hike the Appalachian Trail for the first time in 1999. In fact, he had never even been camping.
Since that first sink-or-swim trip, Noethen has conquered more terrain than a large percentage of the world’s population.
Growing up, Noethen had always appreciated characters like Jeremiah Johnson, Jim Bridger, Davy Crockett, and Daniel Boone. He took to their grizzled approach toward life and their respect for the lay of the land, not knowing that one day he could be mentioned in the same sentence as these pioneers of wilderness exploration.
Noethen, better known as “Crash” on the trails, has set foot on four major through-hikes in his lifetime, completing two of them. His trips have included the Appalachian Trail (AT), the Eastern Continental Trail (ECT), the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) and the Great Divide Trail/Continental Divide Trails (GDT/CDT).
Overall, this bearded trail-wrangler has walked more than 10,000 miles and seen more of the North American continent’s beauty than most could imagine.
The first big hike that Noethen attempted was the Appalachian Trail (AT). The trek started at the northern terminus of the AT on Mt. Katahdin, Maine and lasted for about 5 Months. Noethen had made it into Waynesboro, Virginia when he discovered that he had contracted Giardia lamblia, a waterborn protozoa that attaches itself to the small intestines like a cyst. At that point, Noethen returned home to Adrian, Michigan, where he lived before moving to Knoxville.
Noethen wasn’t able to tackle his goal of hiking the entire AT on his first attempt, but he was able to bank plenty of valuable information for his next endeavor. He now had a template for what a person needs on an extended hike and maybe more importantly what a person doesn’t need. The groundwork for a life of hiking was set.
Not only had the waterborne protozoa paid him an unexpected visit, Noethen had been bitten by the hiking bug, and bitten hard.
PREPARATION
There are three categories of preparation that must all be equally tailored before a person starts a through-hike. According to Noethen, one must be in shape both physically and mentally while also being in good financial standing for trips of this magnitude.
From a physical standpoint, Noethen takes on a mentality much like an Olympic swimmer or that of a camel. “Physically, I try to gain as much weight as I can because I want to have as much energy stored as possible. I also try to ride my bike or walk as much as I can.”
“From a mental standpoint, finding literature from people who have done it always helps,” stated Noethen. “I took the Wilderness First Responder course in case something ever happens to me or anyone that I may come across in the backcountry. It’s a very intensive course that takes about 10 days to cover and it costs about $1,000 but it has been worth it, because it gives me a peace of mind knowing that I should be able to handle most backcountry emergencies. Also, I research for about five or six months before each trip so I know my route.”
The last ingredient for a successful long-distance hike is money. Different through-hikers spend their money in different ways. Noethen prefers to save a little extra money to be able to “experience” the trek. “For the ECT I had about $8,000 saved and I ended up spending every last bit of it. On the other trips I took a little less because I wasn’t covering as much mileage and I wasn’t going to be gone as long, but no matter how much extra I always think I’ll have, I always burn through it.”
The most important piece of advice that Noethen gave pertains to each individual’s relationship between their own body and soul. “You’re always at the mercy of circumstance. You need to know what you could be getting into and you need to be able to admit where your limits are physically and mentally,” he said.
POST OFFICES & TRAIL ANGELS
Through-hikers have also discovered a way to send themselves the goods they may need along the way. Before they leave on the trek, some hikers will purchase necessities in bulk as a money-saving tactic. Then they send the packages to themselves “In care of general delivery.” The postmaster keeps the package until the proper person shows up with matching identification.
“I have a “bounce box” of gear that I send myself every 300-500 miles. It is filled with stuff that I may need to have, like my battery charger for my camera, maps, medicine, books, and extra socks,” said Noethen. “Every post office in the United States will do it. It really comes in handy.”
Noethen also mentioned that hostels and trail angels will often accept packages. Trail angels are kind-hearted people who live in trail towns and try to make life easier for hikers as they pass through. Many times, trail angels are hikers themselves.
HITCHHIKING
Hitchhiking is a part of Noethen’s journeys that doesn’t come to the front of the mind initially. But this is another way that he saves money on his trips. By catching rides to his starting points, he also eliminates any worry about his vehicle while he’s gone or the hassle of flying with materials that are not allowed in airports. “The hitchhiking aspect is probably more dangerous than the actual hiking,” admitted Noethen. “I always try to have a little conversation with the people before I actually hop in the vehicle. If I ever feel like something’s not right, I’ll just decline the offer for the ride,” he said.
Noethen is a man who rarely makes exception to his routine, but a man nonetheless. He started his stories from the road with a simple statement. “I’ve had some really interesting hitchhikes in the past.”
“I got a ride with some carnies one time. They were going to another carnival about 100 miles away to get one of those machine guns for one of the Midway games and they had emptied a case of beer by 10:00 AM. They were both drunk and the car they were driving didn’t have any brakes,” explained the seasoned thumber. “It was a stick, so they would down-shift and get a little slower, then down-shift again until they would be slow enough to just jack the emergency brake up and come to a complete stop.”
“I just don’t like spending money on gas,” he said. “If I have to travel long distances, I prefer to either take a train or catch a ride. It’s a lot more efficient on long distance trips and it’s a lot more interesting.”
His craziest tale of hitchhiking did not happen when he was on one of his through-hikes, but it left a lasting impression on his pre-ride ritual. “I was coming back from New Orleans and I was stuck in some construction just south of Chattanooga. There were cement barriers up to make one lane and they were connected for about 15 miles. I waited there for about eight hours and no one even came close to stopping,” he said.
“So finally this 1970's Cadillac comes up. It’s the only time I’ve ever not talked to the person before I got in,” he added. “I popped open the passenger door, threw my bag in and sat down. I looked over and realized that the driver wasn’t wearing anything but a thong.” Noethen knew that he had made a mistake immediately and he was stuck for the next 15 miles. He informed the driver that he didn’t care why he was dressed that way. He only requested that he be let out of the car at the first available stop. “I was a part of the passenger door upholstery. I never put my head inside the window,” said Noethen.
The man attempted to justify the outfit and oversized bottle of lotion in the cup holder by saying that he often became sleepy while driving. “Whatever dude,” said Noethen. Nowadays, he doesn’t break any of his hitchhiking rules, no matter what the situation.
Not all his stories from catching rides were as outlandish as the previous one, but there are other, more defining experiences that Noethen still remembers to this day. “I remember getting a ride from a guy in Pennsylvania and he was amazed by what I was doing. I’ll never forget what he said. He told me that he had been wanting to try and through hike since he was in his teens, but he had been spinning his wheels in the same spot for 10 or 15 years and he couldn’t seem to get anywhere.”
“I realized that I never wanted to have regrets like that. That was a really big eye-opening experience. However, I realized not too long ago that everyone has regrets,” Noethen examined.
“You tend to fixate on things when you hike. You can focus on the good or you can focus on the bad. If you’re going to be out there for months at a time, you’re going to cover the gamut. To be okay in your own skin and to admit to yourself when you messed up is important when you are by yourself for long periods of time, or else the bad will bring you down.”
PROTECTION
“You have to be diligent about your surroundings and you have to know where you’re stepping,” said Noethen in regards to the dangers of hiking. “When it comes to disease, you have to watch out for Giardia. Also, Lyme disease & Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, which both come from deer ticks. In my bounce box I carry Doxycycline, which is a heavy-duty antibiotic that takes care of those things.”
Noethen plays by the notion of “better safe than sorry” when it comes to eating the food that he comes across along the way. “I don’t really eat wild food because I just don’t know what most of it is.”
“I carry a small pocket knife as well, but nothing that would actually keep a large animal away. I’ve seen a lot of wildlife….alligators, crocodiles, all kinds of birds, whales, bears, mountain lions, wolves, elk, caribou, and big horned sheep.”
“I always try to respect their boundaries and I like to think that they are respecting mine.”
PACK
The technology of camping has come a long way. When hiking became popular in the late 1970's, everything was bulky and heavy. Nowadays, everything has gone super-lightweight and almost anything you buy has waterproof capabilities. “Pack weights used to be 80-90 pounds, but the pack I take with me now (without food or water) weighs between eight to twelve pounds,” said Noethen.
Obviously, footwear is important on long distance hikes. Crash explained that he has experimented with several types of shoes. “I started my first hike with some big old heavy duty Asolo boots. Since then, I’ve tried everything from a twenty-five dollar pair of New Balance to one hundred and twenty dollar Solomon trail runners.”
Socks are important too, according to Noethen. “I always get some kind of wicking wool-nylon combination. Smartwool and Bridgedale socks are the best.”
As far as clothing goes, less is more. “I don’t normally bring more than one change of clothes hiking...All of it is a wool or synthetic base layer, like Patagonia’s capilene. I also carry a zip fleece, a good waterproof/breathable jacket, zip off pants, and a down sleeping bag to name a few. The most important item in my pack is my sleeping bag but the most important tool at my disposal is my brain,” he concluded.
Three and a half years passed before he embarked on his second trip. With the knowledge from his first trip and the hunger to finish the job, Crash set out to do just that.
Crash knew that he wanted another go at the AT. But he wanted to step it up a notch for his second trek. So, instead of starting in Maine, Crash extended the trip north into Canada and began his southbound march of 5,000 miles.
“I did the ECT because I had already done a huge portion of the AT during the original hike,” he said. “To start over and do it all again I thought I might get burned out too quick.”
“I heard about the book entitled “Ten Million Steps,” by MJ Eberhart. The book was about the ECT, and adding an extension north and south of the AT really intrigued me,” Noethen added. “I decided I was just gonna walk until I ran out of money or got hurt or hit the ocean.”
In the end, Crash found himself in the Florida Keys. He had walked from the northern point of the Appalachian mountain range at Cap Gaspe, Quebec, Canada to Key West, Florida, the southernmost tip on the east coast.
When asked what he did after his final steps of the 21 month journey, Noethen said that he stayed away from theatrics. Instead, he took a normal approach. “When I got to Key West I went to a hostel, took a much needed shower and ordered a large pepperoni and cheese pizza,” he explained. “Then I went to sleep.”
His next through hike didn’t happen until 2006.
He had conquered the entire east coast, now he was ready for the western edge of the continent.
He started the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) on August 1st, 2006, and finished on January 1st , 2007. This hike took him 2,650 miles from Manning Provincial Park at the Canadian Border through numerous ranges of treacherous mountaintop. In order to complete the voyage, Crash would have to tackle the Cascades, the Sierra Nevada, the San Bernardino and the San Jacinto mountains ranges. He would also have to survive the Mojave Desert. If the AT was compared to kindergarten, this trail was like high school.
The mountains in the west are a different breed than the Appalachian Mountains. For instance, the High Sierra is roughly twice the elevation of their continental counterpart, making survival much more difficult.
There is a three hundred mile stretch in the High Sierra range of extreme backcountry. Noethen was forced to snowshoe the entire length of the High Sierra due to the mountaintop’s extreme weather. At night he was forced to keep a fire going so he could heat rocks up to put in his shoes in order to prevent them from freezing solid overnight.
Throughout Crash’s many miles of hiking, many moments stand out. But none hold a candle to the memory of his experience in the Sierra Nevada Mountains.
Crash was a little more than a third of the way through his trek down the Pacific Crest Trail at this point. Having already successfully navigated the Cascade mountain range, Noethen felt comfortable, but he also felt a sense of urgency.
That’s when Mother Nature stepped in.
“There was a section in the High Sierra just south of Sonora Pass, which is in North-Central California, just west of Reno, Nevada. I was hiking up the side of this mountain, and it had gotten pretty cold as this point,” explained Noethen. “The whole mountain was a solid sheet of ice and I didn’t have any crampons because they were waiting for me at my next mail drop which was another 110 miles down the trail.”
“I don’t know, I just wasn’t thinking,” he continued. “I figured I could make it through the section without all the necessary equipment...I got about 25 feet out into this ice field on the side of a mountain that is about 10,000 feet above sea level and I lost my footing and started sliding.”
“I bounced off of about four or five boulders and was moving at a pretty good clip when I got twisted around and was facing downhill.”
As he slid face-first down the mountain he noticed a patch of long grass that hadn’t been completely covered by snow. “I knew as soon as I started sliding that I was in some serious trouble. As soon as I hit the patch of grass, I just dug my hands and body into the ground as hard as I could. I came to a skidding halt about 10 feet later,” he furthered.
“I stopped just before a little drop-off that would have only sent me over about six feet, but after the cliff was another mile and a half of boulders and ice. I would have been a bag of broken bones had I not stopped,” he said. “I got my bearings back and climbed back up to the edge of the ice field. Once I knew I was in a safe location, I did a quick check for broken bones, and duct taped a gash on my leg. As I finished patching myself up, I just sat down and cried. It was a close, close call.”
Noethen considers what he does normal to him. In this case, his expression of emotion was par for the course.
The happiest moment of his hiking career came immediately following his near death slide.
It was Thanksgiving day, 2006. The place was Forester Pass. Those in the long distance hiking community look to this pass as a spot of accomplishment. “Since I was southbound, my focus of the entire trip was making Forester Pass before winter storms. If you don’t make it, all that hard work is for nothing, if you do, then your chances have exponentially grown to complete your hike in the same season,” stated Noethen. “When I finally reached that point and started coming down the other side of the pass, there was such a feeling of euphoria that I just can’t find a way to describe.” After nearly losing his life in the previous leg of his journey, Noethen was able to give thanks in a way he didn’t know possible before. “I can’t relay with words how good that felt.”
Crash completed the PCT on January 1st, 2007.
Before returning home to east Tennessee, Noethen presented a slide show of his trip at the University of Southern California. He then hitchhiked through Baja Mexico for a month to Cabo San Lucas. “Then it was time to come home and save up more money for the Triple Crown,” explained Noethen.
In the hiking world, the Triple Crown is achieved when a hiker completes the Appalachian Trail, the Pacific Crest Trail, and the Continental Divide Trail (CDT). But Noethen wasn’t content with doing the Continental Divide by itself. Again, he wanted more.
The CDT starts in Montana and runs through Idaho, Wyoming, Colorado and New Mexico and ends at the U.S./Mexican border. The Great Divide Trail begins in Kakwa Provincial Park in British Colombia and ends at the U.S. border at Glacer-Waterton International Park. The CDT and the GDT connect at the U.S./Canadian border. And so yet another extended trip was born.
With the expansion of his trips, Noethen described his version of the big three as “The Triple Crown on steroids.”
Crash made it through two months of the final piece of his version of the Triple Crown before he contracted a foot fungus. He was forced to stop hiking for ten days for his feet to heal. “During the time I was off my feet, I started thinking about the weather I was going to get into and realized that I was pretty far behind as far as the big picture was concerned, so I threw in the towel early. I was only a week away from completing the GDT when I stopped, but I was only about 1/7th of the way through the whole trip.
The GDT was built in the late 70’s and early 80's but was abandoned due to lack of funding and local interest just as quickly as it was built. As a result, much of the trail has been washed away or is non-existent at this point.
“There’s a lot of investment spiritually, physically, and monetarily so the further you are along the more you want to keep going and get it finished. I was only two months into it, had I been ten months in, I may have kept going.”
Crash plans to start from scratch this June, hoping to finish sometime early next year.
Upon his completion of the extended CDT, Crash says that he will feel satisfied in his North American journeys. “The Triple Crown folks won’t recognize my hikes as extended trips, but I’ll know I did it right. There won’t be much left for me to do in this part of the world.”
It’s hard to measure Noethen’s success in comparison to other hikers.
He is known as the 12th person to complete the ECT. He is one of maybe a thousand hikers to have through hiked the PCT. However, records of the last piece of the puzzle are much harder to locate.
“I don’t think there is anyone who has done the ECT, CDT, and the PCT. I don’t think anybody has done all of them. Hikers are not the kind of people who say, “Look what I did!” which is cool.” explained Noethen. In fact he’s somewhat reluctant to talk of his own accomplishments. “It’s not all about the numbers and accolades. For me it’s about the challenge of setting a goal that seems almost impossible, and somehow being able to pull it off. It’s a huge physical, mental, and spiritual challenge, which is what intrigues me about through hiking.”
FUTURE MISSIONS
As for what’s next on Noethen’s bucket list, a few options are being entertained.
“I want to start in Knoxville, circumnavigate the entire east coast of North America on a boat, and then end up where I started,” he proclaimed.
“What I’d like to do is get a sea kayak kit and build it with my own two hands, and put in at the marina in Knoxville. Kayak down the Mississippi into the Gulf of Mexico, kick out around the keys and come back up the Atlantic (Ocean) all the way to the Gulf of St. Lawrence. From there, paddle into the Great Lakes and then connect to the Ohio River then work my way back down into Knoxville.
“To start in Knoxville in a sea kayak and end in Knoxville…I don’t know if anyone has ever done that,” expressed the adventurous seamen-to-be.
Another dream of Noethen’s is to hike the Via Alpina in Western Europe.
Up to this point, Noethen has funded all his trips individually and has declined conversations with potential sponsors. With a degree of antiquated pride, he mentioned that he enjoys doing it the old fashioned way. “I’ve always wanted to do the Triple Crown by myself with my own money. It’s a level of pride I guess. I’ve had people approach me about sponsorships but I’ve always held back.” Noethen chooses to work and save for his journeys. But he mentioned that he wouldn’t turn down the help when it comes to international hike like the Via Alpina. “I would have to save forever to be able to afford a trip like that. If someone offered me a sponsorship to do the Via Alpina, I would take it out of sheer necessity.
The walk is 2,000 miles long and goes through a total of eight European countries Italy, France, Switzerland, Germany, and Austria. “That’s always been something I’ve wanted to do.
As with most anything in life, through-hiking offers a metaphor for life and a dichotomy of emotion. While one step brings pain and self-evaluation, the next offers glory and accomplishment. “Each trip has its own merits,” said Noethen. “You get lost almost every day; it’s just a matter of finding yourself.”
-rusty@blanknews.com
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